Day 32 of TA - A real glacier!

Sunday 9th November
Distance:  97 km
Elevation gain:  1,229 metres
From Harihari to the town of Fox Glacier
About 8 hrs elapsed from 7am to 3pm.

I know the routine - alarm 5.30am, get dressed, force down a bowl of porridge,  gulp down an iced coffee, pack the bike, apply lube and be ready to roll at 7am.  Lock up, leave the room key in the lock box by reception.  Start pedaling for a day in the saddle.  I'm starting to resent the morning routine - and shouldn't be feeling this way.  I should be grateful that I'm on a fantastic trip.  Thank goodness we have a rest day scheduled for tomorrow (Tuesday).  

Today's cycling was all on Highway 6, heading south.  The mountains were truly breathtaking all day.  The first hill climb was up and over Mount Hercules.  What a stupid name for such a small hill when the Southern Alps are right next to us.  Our first stop was a little town called Whataroa.  We were there before 9am and being Sunday the shops weren't even open yet.  We munched down sandwiches purchased yesterday and by 9am the cafe was open and I could grab a real coffee.  By 9:05am the town's power was off and the cafe was ready to shut.  Even the barista didn't get time to make herself a coffee.  Mine was the first of the day and she missed out because of the power outage. Meanwhile, Rob was going through a checklist of ways to repack his bike to improve stability.  He moved gear from the rear panniers to the front fork bags, pumped up tyres, tightened bolts, and many other changes.  Unfortunately nothing seemed to work.  A job for tomorrow.

Our next stop was at MacDonalds Camping Area by a lovely stream.  It looked like a fine place to camp, and the sandflies weren't too bad.  We ate about 2 bags of snakes for energy and pushed on to the township of Franz Josef for more sugar - I drank 800ml of Powerade (full strength, no diet stuff), a Mars bar, and a sugar gel. Then, after 65km, came the tough section for today.  (It felt like a leg of the Tour de France where the action happens in the last 20km.)  We had a mammoth set of climbs over three saddles – 321m, 408m and 411m.  Once we climbed the first it was down into a valley, and then up over the second, then down into another valley and then up and over the third, before a fast downhill run to the township of Fox Glacier (our destination for tonight).  No wonder we climbed over 1,200 metres today!   We considered it good conditioning for the days ahead where the climbs keep coming.

At the township of Fox Glacier we checked into the local Backpackers and dropped our bags.  We then had one final cycle leg - out to the viewing platform to see the Fox Glacier.  Yes that's right, a real glacier only 15km from the ocean.  From the backpackers to the viewing platform and back it was only 10km, but another 120m of climbing.  It was a joy to cycle without 20kg of gear on the bike.

With all the cycling finished it was time to relax - including a lovely soak in the hot spa at the Backpackers.  Probably a bit hot for me as I only lasted 10 minutes before I had to get out.  I don't think its healing properties had time to work (my legs are still aching).  

Today's theme song is by TISM - (He'll Never Be An) Ol' Man River
Hillary had, Hillary had / Hillary had it in his veins / Hillary had Everest in his veins
Today we could almost see Aoraki / Mt Cook in the distance, and it made me think of New Zealand's most famous mountaineer Sir Edmund Hillary.  He was a true adventurer!  He pushed back the envelope!!

No longer early, just a regular 7am start from Harihari.


The colour of the rivers we crossed was a very pretty turquoise.  I grabbed a picture on one of the bridges when traffic allowed me to stop.


The Southern Alps were ever present on today's ride.  Snow covered peaks were common all day.


Photo control point 23 Fox Glacier.  From the lookout you needed a zoom camera to get a good shot, but I've circled it for identification.  It was just sticking out below the clouds today.



While having dinner tonight at the local pub we noticed the clouds had cleared and there was a better view of the mountains towering over the township.  A few more photos and Wow!  So picturesque.  I even grabbed a lift in a car with some other guests at the Backpackers - they drove out to a better viewing spot about 10km out of town.  But by the time we got there the clouds were back. Damit!

Comments

  1. A beautiful place to rest up. Make the most of a day to recharge.

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  2. River pushed back the envelope! ;-)W

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  3. Thanks for the phone call,great to have a chat and planning for our future catch up.

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  4. Stunning scenery! Enjoy the rest day tomorrow!

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  5. Another epic ride! Great scenery though and the colours in the rivers are beautiful. Very glacial! All the best as you press on. Rest up too when you can! We always enjoy travelling down the West Coast.

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  6. Enjoy your well deserved rest day !

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