Day 34 of TA - Watch out!

Wednesday 12 November
Distance:  79 km
Elevation gain:  1,020 metres
From the town of Haast to Makarora Wonderland Lodge and Campground
About 7 hrs elapsed from 8:30am to 3:30pm.

Camping - it's a young person's game.  Especially when I have to get up in the middle of the night to pee.  I spent about 15 minutes when I got back inside my tent killing all the sandflies and mosquitoes that slipped in when the zip was opened (only briefly mind you).  In the morning, when packing up, the killing fields were obvious with so many dead bugs in the bottom of my tent.   We can't afford to let just one of those bugs in!!  There was a very heavy dew overnight and the tents were saturated.  We tried our best to dry them out, but they were packed up damp.  Something to sort out later today in Makarora.

We left the campground around 8am and headed back into Haast township to the grocery store for some final supplies for the day.  I bought a 800ml Powerade and some ham & salad sandwiches for lunch.   The Powerade was all about sugar and energy for the big climb today over the Haast Pass.  

Our first leg was 45km from Haast township to the base of the Haast Pass climb at Pleasant Flats DOC campground. We followed the Haast river and climbed only 100m in elevation.  We took numerous breaks along the way, trying to keep the sugar levels up for the climb ahead.  At Pleasant Flats we made preparations for the final push over the Pass.  More sugar, sandwiches, water, gels, whatever energy and fuel we could force down.

It seems that all the tour buses also stop at the Pleasant Flats campground because (I'm guessing) there's flushing toilets. There were a few of the grey nomads interested in what we were doing and giving us a bit of a 'pat on the back' for getting out and having a go. But there was one cranky old bastard that had nothing positive to say and told us we were doing it all wrong and that we had too much gear.   Blah blah blah.  I had enough and told him off, turned my back and let Rob deal with him.  

The second leg was only 15km but there was nearly 500 m in elevation. In fact the first 5km was pretty easy going so really it's 500 m elevation in 10km.  It was brutal.  The climbing really got going at the well named Gates of Haast bridge.  I didn't walk, but did take a lot of breaks to keep my heart rate below 160 bpm.  It levelled off with 5km to go and we were cruising again when the real drama of the day occurred.  We were riding through a 30km/hr zone due to construction work - excavator and trucks were off to the side of the road and there were extra large traffic cones (maybe 1m tall) for lane control.  We both heard the familiar rumble of something big coming up the road behind us and we pushed to the left shoulder as much as possible.  Then 3 motorbikes zoomed past - fast!  Unfortunately one of the bikes wasn't expecting traffic cones in the middle of the road on the white line.  They caught him unaware and he smashed into two of the cones, at speed.  He must have crossed over into the opposite lane because when he hit the cones they came directly at us - I guess he clipped them pretty hard.   It was over in a few seconds but I remember seeing one traffic cone coming at us, and then landing just in front of Rob who somehow rode over it and didn't crash.  I jammed on the brakes and Rob and I just looked at each other and were thankful we were in one piece.   There were now two traffic cones on the side of the road when before they were on the white line in the middle of the road.  The workmen came over and checked we were OK, and we replaced the cones and then got going again.  Lucky huh?  The motorbikes zoomed off without stopping.

Within 500m of the summit we were somewhat surprised to see 3 motorbikes off to the side of the road, with repairs being made to one of the bikes.  Seems that when a motorbike hits a few traffic cones at speed it is not good for the radiator.  He had busted it good and proper and lost all the fluid.  All this could have been avoided if they slowed to the recommended 30 km/hr.  

Leaving the bikers to their repairs we reached the Haast Pass with a cry of joy.  It felt so good to reach the summit.  We took a break and both ate another chocolate bar.  Our last leg today was 20km down from the summit to Makarora. We arrived in one piece and lived to tell the tale.  We also decided to camp once more, hopefully my last time pitching a tent on the TA. The Makarora Wonderland Lodge has a cafe that serves cold beer and good pub grub.  A great way to end today.

Today's theme song is by The Church - Under the Milky Way
The stars and milky way are amazing in the dark nights and clear skies.  When I got up to pee at Haast last night the stars were very bright.  The Large and Small Magellanic Clouds were very clear and a stand-out for me.  It's so rare to have such a clear and dark sky to see them at all.  I'm very grateful. 


Getting prepared in Haast.  The campground was more suited to caravans and motorhomes.  The patch of grass for tents was the size of a squash court.


The road ahead always had fabulous views today.  This was starting out when the road was flat!!


Snow-capped peaks were everywhere, as was the Haast river. In the photo below it was very wide indeed.  Later on in the day, near the summit, it was a small stream.


Red-faced during the climb - very hot day.


Photo control point 25 - Haast Pass/Tioripatea at 564m



Our campsite at Makarora Wonderland Lodge & Campground.  Lush green grass but it's a thin veneer over rocky ground that didn't take our tent pegs.  Hope the wind doesn't pick up tonight because my tent is only just held down.









Comments

  1. What an epic day! We'll done both of you and so pleased you both came thru it unscathed, especially with those road works and clowns on the motorbikes! They deserved the damage to that one bike! Haast Pass is a great place to drive thru with its views, waterfalls and bush. Looks like you had a fine day for it which was great! All the best for the ride into Wanaka and on to Queenstown. Enjoy catching up with Leigh on Saturday! Safe biking! And all the very best!

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  2. You can not say the odesesy has been incident free that is for sure. Rob was so lucky, and it proves that karma is alive and well. Would it be safe to say the pressure has been some what eased now that you are in lake country. Have a good day on the morrow.

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  3. Flying human sized witches hats, grumpy old men and close to vertical climbs!
    Glad there was no injuries and pub grub / beer at the end of the day.

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  4. Views!
    Drama!
    Great slope climbing effort!
    Peeing late at night under beautiful skies!
    Pub grub!

    Today had it all! 👍 W

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